The Landscaper – Your Lawn & Landscape Expert

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 Do not use them if you rely on self-sowing plants to fill in gaps in your perennial flower beds. Glyphosate products eliminate both grasses and broadleaf plants, and are applied directly to emerged, actively growing weeds. Glyphosate takes 7 to 10 days to have an effect.

 Do not allow glyphosate-containing products to contact desirable plants, and do not spray under windy conditions because spray drift can also cause unintentional damage to desirable plants. Always read the label for safe and effective use.

 All plants require nutrients to grow and remain healthy, but many drought-tolerant native and adapted plants can get all the nutrients they need from a properly maintained soil environment.

 Many of our urban landscape soils, however, have been stripped of organic matter and the soil structure disturbed to the point where nothing but the most persistent weeds will grow. For this reason, it is a good idea to have your soil tested prior to installing landscape plants.

 In most cases, amending soils with composted organic matter prior to planting will improve the fertility of your soil. Adding organic mulch to planted areas also helps to improve soil fertility over time. If part of your garden will be comprised largely of drought-tolerant native plants, organic amendments may be all they need to thrive.

 Over-fertilizing these plants only weakens them and results in rank, unsightly growth. In fact, many of the penstemons and desert-adapted shrubs like Chrysothamnus nauseosus (Rabbitbrush) and Fallugia paradoxa (Apache Plume) thrive on neglect and require the excellent drainage provided by inorganic rock mulch and little to no supplemental fertilization.

 Knowing the habitat your plants are adapted to is critical to understanding your plant’s needs. If you don’t know, err on the side of less rather than more nutrients, and watch plants closely throughout the growing season for signs of deficiency.

 Nutrient-deficient plants may develop yellow or discolored foliage. If this happens, simply add organic matter or a controlled-release type of complete fertilizer around the root zone, water in thoroughly, and watch for improvement.

 Other factors may affect the availability or movement of nutrients through the soil. Plants in sandy soils may need more frequent fertilization than plants in loamy or clay soils. Soils that are alkaline (high pH) may bind essential nutrients and make them unavailable.

 A soil test will provide this information and make recommendations for amending the soil. An alternative to soil amendment is to choose plants that are adapted to these conditions. Utah soils are often alkaline, and textures can range from rocky or sandy to silty loam or clay.

 Fortunately, plants native to our region have adapted to these conditions, and you can choose from a variety of native plants to fill almost any microclimate in your landscape.

 The key is to learn as much as you can about your yard and your plants. Paying attention to the needs of your landscape plants will make you a more successful gardener.

 Periodically, you will need to control the growth of your landscape plants by pruning, pinching or deadheading, and dividing. These activities will maintain your plants’ health and appearance by removing dead or undesirable growth, and by stimulating, reinvigorating, or re-directing their growth.

 Some locally adapted native plants may quickly grow out of their space when provided with the relatively abundant resources available in a managed landscape. An example is Gutierrezia sarothrae (Matchbrush). Withholding water or nutrients will keep growth of this species in check.

 Pruning is a way to control growth on trees and shrubs. Many forms of pruning exist, and the kind of cut you make depends upon the desired result and the growth habit of the plant.

 Thinning cuts are made by cutting a branch back to its point of origin. The point of origin could be another branch or the main trunk, or it could be near the ground. Thinning can be used to shape or direct growth, but most often it is used to reduce bulk and restore the natural structure of the plant.

 A heading cut is more severe than a thinning cut, and removes part of a branch leaving a short stub above a bud. This type of cut stimulates a profusion of twiggy growth from a lateral bud just below the cut.

 Sometimes it is mistakenly used when a thinning cut would have been a better choice. Overuse of heading cuts can ruin the natural shape of a tree or shrub.

 Shearing is the most severe type of heading cut and involves cutting a plant’s outer foliage to create an even surface. Only certain trees and shrubs will benefit from this type of cut.

Yard Clean Up

 Shearing can be used to create a hedge or screen with closely spaced plants. Some woody plants can be treated like herbaceous perennials and sheared almost to the ground to control their growth or to restore them to a more natural shape. Most pruning should be done in late winter or early spring before spring growth begins.

 For plants that flower on last year’s growth, prune after flowering. With only a few exceptions, most native conifers require no pruning. For example, junipers are highly valued for their natural shape. Junipers that have outgrown their space should be removed rather than pruned.

 The bloom time of some annuals and herbaceous perennials can be extended by removing flowers as soon as they start to decline. This is called deadheading, and some plants can be stimulated to repeat bloom when you remove the spent flowers.

 In the case of plants with a flower on a single stem, cut back the entire stem to avoid a gangly, headless stem. If you don’t deadhead plants that repeat bloom, the plant will set seed, signaling the end of flower production for the season.

 Some herbaceous perennials can be sheared by one half to two thirds after they have gone dormant in the fall. This will remove unsightly stems and rejuvenate plants that have become gangly and have reduced flowering.

 Consider delaying cleanup until late winter for plants that have persistent and attractive stems and seed heads. Plants like Gaillardia (blanketflower), Astilbe (false spiraea), and many native grasses can add structure, texture, and color to an otherwise drab fall/winter landscape.

 Division is another way of rejuvenating herbaceous perennials that have become weakened by age or overgrowth. A sign that your plants need dividing is when flower production is reduced and the stems become thin and nonproductive.

 Perennials are divided by digging up the plant, taking care to dig around, not through, the root system. Using a shovel, two pitchforks, or a sharp blade, pry the plant root system apart to separate into two or more separate plants.

 Plant roots should be kept cool and moist during this process, and new plantlets should be installed and watered in soon after division. Most perennials need to be divided every three to five years.

 The best way to fight insect or disease problems is to prevent them from happening in the first place. When a system called integrated pest management (IPM) is used, you will rarely need to spray chemical-based pesticides to control pests in your yard.

 IPM emphasizes prevention and involves several strategies to control pests, including using landscape plants adapted to your climate, diversifying your planting choices, and maintaining optimal plant health by not over-fertilizing and over- or under-watering.

 Also keep the landscape free of plant debris, and regularly inspect landscape plants for problems. When potential problems are found, contact your local Extension office for help in diagnosing and correcting the problem.

 Landscapers work mostly outdoors in gardens, parks and communal areas to create visually appealing areas using plants, topography and water features. This profession is highly suitable for those who enjoy physical work and have a good eye for design and natural aesthetics. A career in this field requires you to have a wide range of abilities, in addition to training in certain building techniques and a good knowledge of horticulture. In this article, we answer the question 'What is a landscaper?', including the skills necessary to become a landscaper and the prospects for this role.

 To answer 'What is a landscaper?', they're professionals who redesign and embellish the natural aspects of outdoor areas using their knowledge of spatial design, geography and horticulture. They introduce features such as flora, ponds, pathways, patios and terracing to create a space that delivers both a functional value and a visual appeal.

 Businesses, private homes, golf courses and parkland developers who wish to develop and enhance their grounds regularly use landscapers. They can work for civil entities or private companies or be self-employed. Some landscaping contracts require teams to complete while smaller jobs, like maintenance and lawns, may involve working alone.

 Opportunities exist for landscapers in a very diverse sector and they can apply their skills to a variety of rewarding roles. Different levels of expertise, knowledge and training could lead to you enjoying a career from a range of choices, such as:

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